Sunday, March 16, 2008

Of Deities and Frangipanis

Took a day trip yesterday to the nearby seaside town of Vung Tau using the hydrofoil ferry from Saigon. In the fore ground is the ferry I took and at the back is the massive cruise ship Europa at her Saigon stopover. The ferry may not look like much but even with half of the 1.5hr journey being on coastal ocean it was smoother and more comfortable than the longboats I’ve taken in Sarawak before!
As a native of peninsular Malaysia where most of our rivers are more like monsoon drains (longkoang) I find it amazing that a river 50km upstream from the ocean can be deep and wide enough to accommodate such a humongous cruise ship and other ocean liners. Here is the 7storey+ high backside of the Europa up close!:-
Vung Tau is a hilly little peninsular that jets out southward into the south china sea. Originally a sleepy hollow of a fishing village and seaside retreat of the French french colinists, it has of late become more of a “oil town” with many offshore oil rigs and also being the nearest beach to Saigon, it has become a most popular weekend beach getaway more so due to the convenience of it being nearby than anything else. A birds eye view of Vung Tau town :-
The “front beach” of Vung Tau which faces west and is where the ferry docks:-
The east facing “back beach” of Vung Tau which is a 7km stretch covered with deckchairs and umbrellas for rent to cater to the multitudes that throng it every weekend:-

The first landmark i visited was a remnant of the colonial Era, Villa Blanche (white house) is a former French governors holiday home turned museum. The front of the villa:
The courtyard of the villa, note the cannons facing seaward!!
The most noticeable thing about Vung Tau with its hilly geography is the many little temples with kwan yin statues that dot the hillslopes facing seaward. Obviously this must be in line with the prayers for safety for the many fishermen who still go out daily in this town. Some of the local fishing boats:-
The windswept hills are covered with uniquely contorted frangipanis and many are practically leafless due to strong winds that relentlessly blow from almost every angle in this very exposed little peninsular. I definitely would not want to be here during the height of the typhoon season, that’s for sure.
Here’s one of the many kwan yin statues that abound in this area, at the first temple I visited.
Next was the Reclining Buddha temple. At 12m long the serene gaze of the Buddha is also seaward which seems to be the standard feature of all statues/altars of temples (and churches) here.
The unique roof of the Reclining Buddha temple.
Reclining Buddha Temple upper courtyard with its “dragon boat”.
Here’s the local church of Vung Tau which I passed by, in traditional Vietnamese architecture, with its Saint Statues facing seaward.
The biggest statue in the area which i visited next was on the southernmost hill of the peninsular, surprisingly it was a statue of Jesus Christ, which at 100ft tall looked very much like that Christ of the Andes statue in South America.
Along the way up there is a replica of Michelangelo’s pieta one of my favourite sculptures.

To realize how tall the statue is, look at how minute the girl on top of the staircase at left is in comparison!!
Check out JC’s drama king pose, “come on vogue, JC” !
The hillside leading up to the Jesus Christ statue was also line with the contorted/leafless frangipanis typical of this area.


Next stop at a hill northwest of town, was another very Catholic 60ft tall statue of the Madonna and Child.
Barely 500m down the road from Mother Mary and Infant Jesus was another Kwan Yin Statue on the same hillslope, at 40ft this was the biggest on I saw in the area.
Seems like, the Catholics and Buddhists in this area try to outdo each other praying for the safety of the local fishermen. Well while the 2 Catholic statues may be the biggest in the area, the Buddhist have many many more… so lets just call it a draw.
On to One more temple… this time the sprawling hilltop temple complex of the Sitting Buddha in the older side of town.

Interesting obelisks in the Sitting Buddha Temple, no idea what it represents though.
An ornate shrine in the Sitting Buddha Temple.
Altar/Meditation area in the shrine.
There was also a reclining Buddha statue in the Sitting Buddha temple.
Once again those contorted/windswept frangipanis were everywhere in the Sitting Buddha temple grounds.


Also in gthe Sitting Buddha temple grounds, this leafless tree gives the statues here depicting an events from Buddha’s life extra dramatic effect.
Finally here’s the two beaches of Vung Tau up closer.
Front Beach with its coconut lined seawall walk and kites forsale.


Back Beach with its commercial trappings, the hill in the background is the one with the Jesus Christ Statue.

Friday, February 15, 2008

Lunar New Year ala Saigon

Arrived back in Saigon on the 5th day of the lunar new year which is know as ‘Tet’ here. The city was most lavishly decorated for the occasion to the point of gaudy in some cases but then again it’s the season where red and gold are fashion statements. Besides the typical Chinese style red décor, a unique twist here is the incorporation of yellow peach blossoms as Vietnam’s answer to the pink/white cherry blossoms of Japan/China. These bonsai looking peach trees which are covered with resplendently brilliant yellow blooms and were in almost every other house porch and all around town as well… like here inside the ornate post office:-
And in front of the town hall:-
The peach blossoms were joined by other yellow flowers like marigold and chrysanthemums.
Carrying on with the yellow theme were these street-lining swift shaped décor.
And of course Vietnamese lanterns were hung on many major streets.

Besides the lanterns, there were also less traditional but still fascinating lighting decorating the streets at night.

And of course rats were infesting the city but in a welcome way for a change.
Despite this not being a four season country in the strict sense, the lunar new year does coincide with blossoming of many flowers giving the place an air of spring. Thus part of the festivities was this flower fest held in the biggest park in the city centre.

There were rats at the flower fest too....like this one made of hay

...and another 2 made of orange gourds

Of course what's the lunar new year without going to the temple and praying for a better year ahead... which is why all these temples in Saigon's chinatown that i visited on the 6th day of CNY were full of devotees :-


Finally “Chuc Mung Nam Moi!!!!” which is Vietnamese for happy new year of course.